Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Caorle

My first time having jet lag, yesterday morning I did not want to wake up after twelve hours of sleep. Italy is six hours ahead of the U.S. so as I write this I am heading for bed and you are heading for dinner! The first few days were scary, being in an unknown country, trying to speak a language that I have only basic skills in. But after my firsts, first time I ordered gelato (only 1 euro per scoop,) first time asking directions, first time ordering train tickets, I began to settle in. Today we took a boat through a lagoon, admiring huts made from cane. The cane keeps the huts cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Fishermen that live along the lagoon used to fish for eel, until the population decreased. We encountered swans, heron, turns and gulls along the way. We made one stop to visit a secluded hut, used by Hemingway when he wrote one of his novels.
I slipped into the town at 9pm on the first Tuesday of June and the streets were packed, the stores all open, dogs, children on bicycles, couples, families, all milling about. The price of gelato increased with the change of the tourist season, off to on, but was still a bargain at 1,10 euro. Live music played in from of the bancomat and a juggler performed in the piazza. Street cafes were packed. I wandered, watching the performers, listening to conversations and shopping, of course, finding small inexpensive gifts for family. I finally arrived back at the hotel around 11, late for an early riser, but unable to tear myself away from the energy of the historic center, both new and old. The young and old people walking around together amidst the buildings that have been around for centuries created a certain unique energy, the energy of Caorle. A few blocks brings you to the ocean where an entirely different energy resides, the waves crashing against the rocks, benches filled with folks eating gelato, couples kissing on the beach, empty bottles of wine at their feet. I felt refreshed walking toward the hotel, tired feet and head filled with new phrases learned, “non bisogna di una borsa,” I don’t need a bag, “grazie mille,” thanks a million. I had been to the grocery story, coffee shops, explored pizza options and walked along the beach. I had taken a boat ride, learned about Italian cuisine and listened to Italian rock music. I believe it was a very good day.

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